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THE BREAKFAST
La Cucina
Orto
La cantina
A week of delights, the seven best things to do and see around La Darbia.
I was asked recently what are the best destinations around our Lake d 'Orta, such as the most suggestive itineraries, the most interesting places and the activities not to be missed. Believe me, art, good food, nature, landscape, sport, there is an embarrassing amount to choose from!
Here is a list of my favourites:
The island of San Giulio and the ancient village of Orta
One of the most beautiful places in the world, an enchanted island that emerges from the water with its wonderful Benedictine monastery. Medieval legends surround this magical place, the mystical symbol of the whole lake.
Orta San Giulio
Right in front of the island, the village of Orta is destined to capture the visitor with narrow streets, palaces, churches and alleys that glide towards the lake. A romantic aperitif in the small square, not to be missed!
The Sacred Mount of Orta
Built in the 16th century and dedicated to Saint Francis, the Sacro Monte dominates Orta and offers a breathtaking view. I suggest a walk when the lights of the sunset make the lake sparkle, while the ringing of bells fills the sky.
The Madonna del Sasso
A true balcony overlooking the Cusio, the imposing sanctuary of the Madonna del Sasso built on a granite spur, dominates the western shore of the lake. Sometimes it appears dazzling, kissed by the morning sun, or it emerges wrapped in the lake fog, it always evokes a fairytale scenario.
Stresa and the Borromean Islands
Stresa is the true pearl of Lake Maggiore, with its elegant liberty style hotels and the three Borromean islands that emerge from the water and offer enchanted views. It is no coincidence that great artists of a not too distant past (from Hemingway to Flaubert, from Lord Byron to Stendhal) have linked their name to these places so full of charm.
Mount Mottarone
Mottarone is synonymous with relaxing walks along broom-bordered paths, alpine huts where you can taste polenta, winter skiing along snow-covered slopes. The funniest attraction? The Alpyland amusement park with its rail bobsleigh track.
The gardens of Villa Taranto
Everyone should give up a couple of hours visiting the famous gardens of Villa Taranto, overlooking Lake Maggiore, especially in spring when the park offers an incredible spectacle with thousands of flower beds and a blaze of colourful tulips.
Before saying goodbye, I would also like to remind everyone of the many fun activities that our lake offers, from SUP to canoeing, from boats to daring dives (have you ever tried the great high dive board at Gozzano?) And again: the acrobatic courses at the Adventure Park and bicycle rides (maybe electric ...) through woods and paths.
Maybe, maybe a week is not enough...
The traditional Piedmontese menu is now a real 'must' in the cuisine of La Darbia. Culture and not just food. History and tradition. That blend the pleasure of the senses.
While I observe the chef Monfrinotti who moves with harmonious safety between pans and stoves, I am enchanted: a ballet of sinuous and decisive gestures, accompanied by a riot of inviting smells. This is how his dishes are born, from the passion for authentic flavours, from the search for the finest ingredients, from the attention to detail.
Do you think he will reveal some secrets of his extraordinary menu to me? I don't think so ... but it is enough for me to be able to stand here and admire him while he takes care of his preparations. Genuine and fine products that are transformed into signature dishes.
So, if you are in the mood for gluttony, follow me: today we will take a journey into taste, to discover the flavors of the Piedmontese tradition. And the beginning can only be entrusted to the famous vitello tonnato, a historic dish, which dates back to the eighteenth century but which only the famous Pellegrino Artusi formalized in his cooking treatise, decreeing the presence of a sauce with tuna, anchovies, capers and lemon juice to accompany thin slices of tender veal. Among the starters, our cuisine often also offers the strong flavour of peppers, seasoned with anchovies and "bagnetto", a green and creamy sauce made with parsley, capers and olive oil.
And what about the first courses? There is something to indulge in ... The undisputed star of Piedmontese tables are the tagliolini, which chef Monfrinotti strictly prepares by hand, using forty egg yolks. The intense color and deep flavor of the pasta are charged with the frothiness of the butter and, why not, with a grated white truffle. And if you love stuffed pasta, you can also try the ravioli with mixed boiled meat inside, always a winning combination.
But we cannot speak of Piedmontese gastronomy, without mentioning the delicious “bagna cauda”, symbol of our tables with its strong and enveloping flavour. Since the Middle Ages this condiment based on oil, garlic and anchovies has accompanied the lunches of peasant families, especially in the cold winter season.
And to conclude «dulcis in fundo» says the proverb. And so let's indulge in the pleasure of a slice of bonet, a creamy delight with amaretti, cocoa and caramel. Or let us be tempted by a sweet mixed fry, made with semolina and enriched with zabaglione.
While the chef continues to cook and give directions to his young kitchen brigade, I take some photos of his dishes.
Dishes with a strong soul. Delicious dishes that taste of home, family, countryside, identity. Dishes to try, at least once in a lifetime!
On Sunday morning Cannobio hosts one of the most beautiful markets of Lake Maggiore, a whirlwind of colours and aromas that transport us into the most authentic Italian summer.
It’s wonderful to get lost among straw bags, sandals and hats, frivolous dresses and the scent of fruit and roast chicken. It’s great fun to barter the price of bracelets and necklaces, scarves and foulards, among fresh flowers and silk skirts that flutter in the wind.
There is an air of vacation, a feeling of carefree joy among the colourful stalls and the narrow streets of the historic center.
Cannobio, on Sunday mornings, is filled with a dense bustle of people: the large and lively weekly market takes place right on the road that flanks the lake, a fixed and very characteristic appointment. Many colourful products, fruit and vegetables, useful and useless objects are placed in plain sight to attract the gaze of tourists who also come from nearby Switzerland to savor the relaxed atmosphere of an Italian Sunday morning. Cappuccini and brioches at the tables of the bars or aperitifs in the premises overlooking the large Piazza Vittorio Emanuele are the side dish for the exhibits of the street vendors, who cheerfully attract their customers.
The wonderful lakefront is also overlooked by many pretty bars, restaurants and pizzerias, craft and antique shops. Under the shade of the arcades, tables and armchairs welcome those who want to rest for a while, while the boat lands at the pier and many boats glide over water that shines in the reflection of the sun.
The colourful facades of the houses, the picturesque harbor, the tolling of the bells and the shouting of the people accompany me on my walk among the stalls, while I try to decide between a pair of comfortable Birkenstocks or the stylish ankle boots that I really fell in love with...
I also like to browse in some shop windows, buy a newspaper and sit on a bench to leaf through it calmly or lie down on the Lido lawn, among the branches of trees and waves that calmly lap at the beach.
If you happen to be in these parts, it is also worth visiting the Rocca Vitaliana, better known by the name of "Castelli di Cannero", three rocky islets on which the ruins of ancient fortifications built at the time of the struggles between Guelphs and Ghibellines are located. They are fascinating ruins that tell us stories of medieval fiefdoms, smugglers and counterfeiters, pirates and fishermen. These "castles" that emerge from the lake with all the mysterious charm typical of ancient ruins, illuminated by the sunset or immersed in the spectacle of the dawn, represent one of the most picturesque views of Cannobio, one of the best known symbols of Lake Maggiore.
And while I observe their profile which seems to float on the water, I think that a Sunday like this is a real gift, an injection of good humor, a breath of contagious joy.