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THE BREAKFAST
La Cucina
Orto
La cantina
A week of delights, the seven best things to do and see around La Darbia.
I was asked recently what are the best destinations around our Lake d 'Orta, such as the most suggestive itineraries, the most interesting places and the activities not to be missed. Believe me, art, good food, nature, landscape, sport, there is an embarrassing amount to choose from!
Here is a list of my favourites:
The island of San Giulio and the ancient village of Orta
One of the most beautiful places in the world, an enchanted island that emerges from the water with its wonderful Benedictine monastery. Medieval legends surround this magical place, the mystical symbol of the whole lake.
Orta San Giulio
Right in front of the island, the village of Orta is destined to capture the visitor with narrow streets, palaces, churches and alleys that glide towards the lake. A romantic aperitif in the small square, not to be missed!
The Sacred Mount of Orta
Built in the 16th century and dedicated to Saint Francis, the Sacro Monte dominates Orta and offers a breathtaking view. I suggest a walk when the lights of the sunset make the lake sparkle, while the ringing of bells fills the sky.
The Madonna del Sasso
A true balcony overlooking the Cusio, the imposing sanctuary of the Madonna del Sasso built on a granite spur, dominates the western shore of the lake. Sometimes it appears dazzling, kissed by the morning sun, or it emerges wrapped in the lake fog, it always evokes a fairytale scenario.
Stresa and the Borromean Islands
Stresa is the true pearl of Lake Maggiore, with its elegant liberty style hotels and the three Borromean islands that emerge from the water and offer enchanted views. It is no coincidence that great artists of a not too distant past (from Hemingway to Flaubert, from Lord Byron to Stendhal) have linked their name to these places so full of charm.
Mount Mottarone
Mottarone is synonymous with relaxing walks along broom-bordered paths, alpine huts where you can taste polenta, winter skiing along snow-covered slopes. The funniest attraction? The Alpyland amusement park with its rail bobsleigh track.
The gardens of Villa Taranto
Everyone should give up a couple of hours visiting the famous gardens of Villa Taranto, overlooking Lake Maggiore, especially in spring when the park offers an incredible spectacle with thousands of flower beds and a blaze of colourful tulips.
Before saying goodbye, I would also like to remind everyone of the many fun activities that our lake offers, from SUP to canoeing, from boats to daring dives (have you ever tried the great high dive board at Gozzano?) And again: the acrobatic courses at the Adventure Park and bicycle rides (maybe electric ...) through woods and paths.
Maybe, maybe a week is not enough...
Strolling around Milan on a quiet autumn Sunday, while the city offers up treasures and reveals unexpected secrets.
A day in the metropolis is like a burst of pure energy, the urban space is above all an encounter with humanity and its talents, with industry and history, art and business.Social life and civilization are the very emblem of the city, both fascinating and chaotic, at times insidious but certainly energetic, vital, pulsating.
Milan is like this, hard-working and dynamic, ancient and modern, open and mysterious.For this reason, every now and then I escape from the quiet of the lake Orta and come to visit some hidden corner of this vibrant city.And I am never disappointed!
Three tips, therefore, for a Milanese day: start with Brera, go through San Satiro and absolutely visit Sant’Ambrogio.
The street that gives its name to the Brera district was once just a grassy and uncultivated clearing that was chosen by the Order of the Humiliated to erect its convent.Today Via Brera is the axis of a trendy district, frequented by international tourists, dotted with historic shops, art galleries, restaurants and luxury shops.But this neighborhood has been able to maintain its own identity: you can breathe an intimate and characteristic atmosphere, almost like a village, while you can choose whether to drink a Campari at the tables of the Jamaica bar, take a tour of the market in via Fiori Chiari or visitthe most famous art gallery in Italy. I would also recommend a walk to the Botanical Garden and a stop at the Academy of Fine Arts or a little shopping in the furniture shops that make up the beating heart of this design district.
Another of my favorite stops when I come to Milan remains the amazing church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro.In the very central Via Torino, right next to the Duomo, between two buildings and hidden behind a heavy gate, lies one of the masterpieces of Italian art.It is a very special building: it is enough to cross the threshold of the church to be impressed by the large space behind the altar, characterized by columns and decorations, a space that is however only the result of an extraordinary optical illusion, a true perspective deception because,in reality ... the apse does not exist!This effective trompe l'oeil is the work of Donato Bramante, one of the greatest Italian architects, who transformed the small space into a brilliant artistic opportunity, creating a fake apse measuring 97 centimeters instead of the 9.70 meters envisaged by the original project.
The last suggestion for your Milanese day is the famous Basilica of Sant'Ambrogio, which represents the ancient and devout heart of the city, as it houses the remains of the patron saint to whom all Milanese are inextricably linked.The church dates back to the fourth century (when the ancient Mediolanum was the capital of the Western Roman Empire) and was built outside the walls, in an area where Christians martyred by persecutors were buried.
I particularly like this place steeped in history, where silence and stillness reign supreme: I like to stroll along the quadriportico admiring the gabled façade, the loggias and bell towers, the cloisters of Bramante and, inside, the golden altar andthe column with the snake.
But in reality I am fascinated by the whole area where this characteristic red brick basilica stands, an area that also houses the Catholic University, Piazza Sant'Ambrogio and the famous Devil's Column (which, according to legend, still smells of sulfur).
As I told you Milan is a city with many resources, its greatness lies in the beauty that it knows how to preserve and that the hasty traveler, generally, does not see. But many metropolitan treasures often reside in the folds of the city’s geography, it is enough to know how to find them.
(I forgot: today's suggestions are all absolutely free!)
The traditional Piedmontese menu is now a real 'must' in the cuisine of La Darbia. Culture and not just food. History and tradition. That blend the pleasure of the senses.
While I observe the chef Monfrinotti who moves with harmonious safety between pans and stoves, I am enchanted: a ballet of sinuous and decisive gestures, accompanied by a riot of inviting smells. This is how his dishes are born, from the passion for authentic flavours, from the search for the finest ingredients, from the attention to detail.
Do you think he will reveal some secrets of his extraordinary menu to me? I don't think so ... but it is enough for me to be able to stand here and admire him while he takes care of his preparations. Genuine and fine products that are transformed into signature dishes.
So, if you are in the mood for gluttony, follow me: today we will take a journey into taste, to discover the flavors of the Piedmontese tradition. And the beginning can only be entrusted to the famous vitello tonnato, a historic dish, which dates back to the eighteenth century but which only the famous Pellegrino Artusi formalized in his cooking treatise, decreeing the presence of a sauce with tuna, anchovies, capers and lemon juice to accompany thin slices of tender veal. Among the starters, our cuisine often also offers the strong flavour of peppers, seasoned with anchovies and "bagnetto", a green and creamy sauce made with parsley, capers and olive oil.
And what about the first courses? There is something to indulge in ... The undisputed star of Piedmontese tables are the tagliolini, which chef Monfrinotti strictly prepares by hand, using forty egg yolks. The intense color and deep flavor of the pasta are charged with the frothiness of the butter and, why not, with a grated white truffle. And if you love stuffed pasta, you can also try the ravioli with mixed boiled meat inside, always a winning combination.
But we cannot speak of Piedmontese gastronomy, without mentioning the delicious “bagna cauda”, symbol of our tables with its strong and enveloping flavour. Since the Middle Ages this condiment based on oil, garlic and anchovies has accompanied the lunches of peasant families, especially in the cold winter season.
And to conclude «dulcis in fundo» says the proverb. And so let's indulge in the pleasure of a slice of bonet, a creamy delight with amaretti, cocoa and caramel. Or let us be tempted by a sweet mixed fry, made with semolina and enriched with zabaglione.
While the chef continues to cook and give directions to his young kitchen brigade, I take some photos of his dishes.
Dishes with a strong soul. Delicious dishes that taste of home, family, countryside, identity. Dishes to try, at least once in a lifetime!